$60 for a Bundy II Alto

still trying to solve leaks. this is only the second alto i've done a full repad on, the other was far easier. it was a Yas-23.

this bundy is rather frustrating.
 
Okay, latest update on this on-again-off-again project.

Something just wasn't right on the LH stack, so I disassemble it and roll the rod on the table. Why i didn't do this before? Haven't been in the hobby much lately, actually. Turns out the rod was significantly curved. I put it in the chuck of my craftsman 18v cordless, set the speed to high, and spin it while applying tension to the length of the rod while it's turning. After about 30 seconds, there is now no wobble as it turns.

A straight rod. Yay!

I go to fit the rod back in the horn. It won't go through! Turns out the second and third posts aren't in line with the first and the last and there are no dents that would have explained this misalignment.

No wonder the rod was bent. Nice QA there Selmer!

Okay, so I unsolder the posts and use the keys to align for distance while repositioning them. The posts are aligned now!! I just used flux and a tiny bit of solder in the one, the second I used no additional solder, but I consider this an okay job.

Unfortunately, there is too much play in the B key now, so I bought a swedging plier from Musicmedic.

ah well, I wanted to get more tools anyway...

:)
 
Something just wasn't right on the LH stack... Turns out the rod was significantly curved... I go to fit the rod back in the horn. It won't go through! Turns out the second and third posts aren't in line with the first and the last and there are no dents that would have explained this misalignment. Unfortunately, there is too much play in the B key now, so I bought a swedging plier
These are just a few of the problems that are so common on some models, like Bundy II. Not surprising at all. Some others are severely non-level tone holes, very loose keys, etc. without any dings and dents, not to mention design issues such as poorly shaped key arms, etc.

BTW depending on what way the posts don't align, I rarely prefer to re-solder them and usually prefer to bend them (if alignment to the side is the issue). Even if it is up/down without or without side misalignment I would usually prefer to bend them. It's possible they were bent and there is no real sign on the body anywhere, even under the posts.
 
Okay,

It appears to be finished now. I'm fortunate enough to have a nice Yanagisawa to compare it with, and there is really no comparing the action which I saw fit to lighten it a little, which I find is a bit of improvement.

It plays easily from top to bottom now and all the pads close nicely. Thicker key oil silenced the key movements quite a bit.

I wasn't able to level the toneholes, lacking the proper equipment to do so. None appeared to be that major anyway, so I instead meticulously floated the pads against the rims, which seemed to work fine with some effort.

i don't think i'll keep this. I have a few altos allready and need the money to buy more tools and horns.
 
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