Beginner problem: Flute Low C and D Not Working

[Mialum]

Hey everyone!
A few things before I get into my problems:
1. It's my first time here, so hi everyone!
2. If this thread is in the wrong section, please by all means move it to its proper place.
3. If this has been answered before, by all means let me know; I'll read the answers there and not waste anyone's time

My sister and I each have a flute that is giving us the same problem. The low D and C notes will not play well on either flute, regardless of how hard we try. Her flute is an older Gemeinhart that has been professionally repadded relatively recently, and mine is a project Armstrong 104 that I got at a pawn shop for 20 bucks and tried to repad myself. (Yeah I know, that's my first problem right there ). All of the other notes on both her and my flute work well, it's just the low C and D (My Armstrong plays the D a little easier than her Gemeinhart: but the C on the Armstrong won't play at all, and the C on the Gemeinhart will play softly of coaxed).
I don't believe it's an embouchure problem because when either of us play a flute that actually works, we can play those low notes without any difficulty.

Sorry for the text wall! Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!!

 

[Gandalfe]

It might be interesting to have a music student/teacher try the flutes to see if it's the instrument or you. Usually the first lesson is free. Good luck. Many times when I hit this problem, it was the instrument ... not me.

 

[Steve]

you answered your own question ...
"I don't believe it's an embouchure problem because when either of us play a flute that actually works, we can play those low notes without any difficulty."

I do not know who repaired your sister's flutes. But I'm going to guess it's not 100%. Flute is a finicky instrument to set the pads with all the shims and stuff. You can stick a LED light string down the joint and lightly (lightly is the key here) close the keywork and look for light shining through between a pad and tonehole. Even try a bright small flashlight as the bore is nice and reflective.

There can be large differences between general repair at music stores and specialty instrument stores.

For instance around me within a couple miles either direction,
there is Marshall Music which mostly deals with school instruments. marshallmusic.com
And then there is "Flute Specialists, Inc" in town which specialized in flute specific sales and repair (they've been around as long as I can remember). flutespecialists.com
And then in the rich part of town which opened several years ago is Flute World fluteworld.com
and then there is also, which I didn't even know opened, Muramatsu America, https://muramatsu-america.com/
All of these within a couple miles of me.

The repair price for the same services go up dramatically on that list.
But the in-depth knowledge of specific techniques and mechanisms, attention to detail and taking as much time as needed also goes up dramatically on that list.

What I'm getting at that repairs are not all equal. Of course, the specific repair price is all not equal at all either.
Some places put a time limit on repairs for a specific price,
Others give a quote and may stick close to it but may call to expand that quote as further refinement is needed.
And your comparison is your repadded yours compared to your sisters done by some repair person.

But you may want to take your flute to a more specific flute specialist.

FYI,
When I had a student Armstrong flute, 101 or 103 I could not play it lower joint notes well at all.
Though I could play my intermediate Armstrong flute which I believe was a 303OB
and I could play a professional Armstrong flute model 80. I had all 3 models at the same time.

The difference I found for me was the small round embouchure hole on the student flute good for training airstreams was not good for me. Even though I didn't play flute I was an advanced sax and clarinet player.
I could easily play the 303 (more oval EH) and 80 (larger oval EH) to the 101.
But this was evident in just playing the flute head .. as I had issues with the 101 (and I checked the head cork, lip riser for leaks, etc and all was good. but no issues from the 303 or 80.
Just something to consider from experience from one person which was many decades ago.

 

[Faganflute]

Hey everyone!
A few things before I get into my problems:
1. It's my first time here, so hi everyone!
2. If this thread is in the wrong section, please by all means move it to its proper place.
3. If this has been answered before, by all means let me know; I'll read the answers there and not waste anyone's time

My sister and I each have a flute that is giving us the same problem. The low D and C notes will not play well on either flute, regardless of how hard we try. Her flute is an older Gemeinhart that has been professionally repadded relatively recently, and mine is a project Armstrong 104 that I got at a pawn shop for 20 bucks and tried to repad myself. (Yeah I know, that's my first problem right there ). All of the other notes on both her and my flute work well, it's just the low C and D (My Armstrong plays the D a little easier than her Gemeinhart: but the C on the Armstrong won't play at all, and the C on the Gemeinhart will play softly of coaxed).
I don't believe it's an embouchure problem because when either of us play a flute that actually works, we can play those low notes without any difficulty.

Sorry for the text wall! Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!!

As one who has many different quality flutes, I've found that sometimes just a simple swap of a headjoint will make the low notes easier to sound.
The style of embouchure hole cut alters where the airstream needs to be placed for these notes. If you have opportunity and the headjoints fit, try using a headjoint from a flute that sounds low notes easily for you on your flute and see if there is any difference.

Another way to help low notes sound is to practice overtones. Take your headjoint off the flute and try to make as many different pitches as possible (think bugle calls, etc.). After getting good at this, do the same thing on the assembled flute. Start on low E flat and sound as many overtones as possible going up and coming back down holding the low note. Then sound the low note as long as possible with a big full sound and again with a soft supported sound. Once this is done, move down by half steps (D, C# and then Low C) practicing these same excises. These will help your playing on a good flute and one that needs repair.

Ditto - there is nothing like going to an actual flute teacher for a private lesson. Most teachers can quickly assess any instrument issues and recommend a flute repair technician.

Best wishes!